Sunday, March 16, 2014

Timeless Pompeii: Digging into Ancient Rome: Part 2

Pompeii Panorama
Pompeii is not simply a classical Roman city.  It isn't just a well preserved ruin. And it certainly isn't a pile of dusty relics interesting only to stuffy academics (but the academics are pretty dusty looking).
Pompeii is a contemporary time machine. Each step you take within the city transports you to a greater and deeper understanding of the period in general and provincial Roman life specifically. It is a laboratory, a cultural mirror by which we can compare ourselves to the residents of Pompeii. They are not unlike us or perhaps we are not unlike them.
Terentius Neo and Wife from Pompeii
Terentius Neo and Wife from Pompeii
Pompeii isn't like any other excavation of antiquity (with the possible exception of Hurculaneum also buried during the eruption of Vesuvius); it was frozen in time. All of its art, architecture, theater, tools, businesses and, eerily, it's inhabitants are still there to see. It's a journey that everyone, YOU especially, need to make. Don't die before you experience it. Bucket list it!
Visiting Pompeii was actually a lark. "What?!" you say "What happened to the surgical strike vacation?!" Look, I said that's the way it should-"SHOULD"- be done. I'm just like every other dumb ass tourist who didn't think far enough ahead to plan-out the whole Pompeii thing.  Back. Off. ;-)
Hanging Laundry in Naples
No wonder the streets are close together!
The Italian City of Naples and Vesuvius
Naples and Vesuvius
After touring Naples (quite possibly the dirtiest city in Italy-it certainly has the most laundry hanging from every possible window and assorted fixture) I got back on the bus and headed down the coast road to Pompeii. When I wasn't cringing in my seat (I'm not sure what was more dangerous the bus driver or the traffic he was navigating-I use that term loosely), I was just staggered by the blue of the Mediterranean. It's an azure blue that I have never seen replicated in other bodies of water.
Driving in Town
Anybody Rather Walk?
The drive to Pompeii ordinarily takes 30 minutes but it took me closer to an hour. Its not exactly a US interstate to Pompeii (by that I mean its a suicide road they claim has multiple lanes. All I saw were cars going in every direction while occupying the same space as on-coming traffic!) Honestly, the coast drive was beautiful but I was mostly in awe of the Italian drivers. In the cities it was pure pandemonium.
Each car, Ferrari and otherwise, with what seemed like an inexhaustible passion, was attempting to launch itself around each consecutive bend and then over a cliff...or so it seemed. Driving in Italy you learn that all lanes are for everybody's use regardless of direction of travel; you only need to be in one or the other to avoid untimely death.

But I digress. Hell, its my blog...

Driving Up to Pompeii
Driving Up to Pompeii
Pompeii was originally closer to the sea. This will become clear when you first approach what functions as the current day entrance. The exterior seems somewhat abrupt. While contemporary and Pompeiian Italy meet at a serviceable tourist portal, it's easy to see that the sea was considerably closer than it is today (about 5 miles inland now).
Let's journey inside to Imperial Rome...

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